I’ve always loved the idea of owning a castle. The thought of strolling through grand halls, finding secret staircases, and feeling centuries of history beneath my feet is endlessly appealing. For now, though, I’ll settle for something almost as good: spending a weekend in one. While I’m certainly no history buff, I can’t help but get carried away by the magic of thick stone walls, quiet nooks, and winding turrets. Last week, I finally got the chance to live out that fantasy at Kilmartin Castle, hidden in the heart of Scotland’s ancient Kilmartin Glen. Spoiler alert: it was even better than I’d imagined.
From Inverness to Kilmartin Glen: A Scenic Adventure
I’ve lived in Inverness for a decade and have driven the road westward more times than I can count, but the journey still never fails to surprise me. The scenery always seems to shift with each season, each hour of the day, offering a new detail I hadn’t noticed before. Leaving the familiarity of my home city, the A82 took me past familiar sights, Drumnadrochit, Fort Augustus, Spean Bridge, and the dramatic silhouette of Ben Nevis hovering near Fort William. Beyond that, the route merged onto the A828 and then the A816, delivering me into landscapes that practically beg for a camera and a good pair of hiking boots. Jagged peaks, sprawling glens, shimmering lochs, it felt like Scotland was showing off, giving me a grand welcome before I even arrived at my weekend retreat.
A Warm Welcome to Kilmartin
Kilmartin is a beautiful, unsuspecting little village, the kind of quintessential Scottish setting you see in postcards and films. I took a left at the Kilmartin Hotel (great beer, by the way) and followed a private drive through a gorgeous iron gate. There it stood, Kilmartin Castle, uplit against the evening sky, waiting for me to arrive.
I hopped out of my Defender and headed to the front door. There, I was greeted by Simon, one of the owners of Kilmartin Castle. From the very first hello, it felt like I’d known him all my life. He’s a relaxed, familiar Aussie with that quintessential Aussie sense of humor. Instantly at ease, I knew this place would feel like home.
Despite the grand exterior, Kilmartin Castle isn’t intimidating. If anything, it feels like a snug retreat wrapped in centuries-old stone. Simon and his partner Steph have done a phenomenal job blending historical charm with modern comforts. My room was delightfully cosy, with just enough quirks (think narrow windows and rustic beams) to remind me I was staying in a genuine 16th-century fortress.
After settling in, I gravitated toward the kitchen, where we cooked up a rustic beef stew and served it alongside fresh greens plucked straight from the castle’s own vegetable garden. We enjoyed this hearty feast together in the candlelit dining room, the soft glow of candlelight dancing off ancient walls as we laughed and shared stories (mostly ghostly ones, admittedly) which turned dinner into an experience rather than just a meal.
Later, we retreated to the lounge, warmed by a crackling fireplace and serenaded by the wind outside. With a few generous drams of a peaty local whisky in hand, I settled into an old chesterfield, its worn leather creaking softly beneath me. I listened, entranced, as Simon recounted the tale of renovating Kilmartin Castle, its challenges, triumphs, and the guiding vision that brought it roaring back to life. In that golden, fire lit moment, I felt as though I’d stumbled into my own fairy tale hideaway, savouring every smoky sip as if it were part of the castle’s ancient story. I was king of this fortress, if only for a weekend.
The Stones at Temple Wood
The next morning brought a new adventure. Before heading out, we decided on a quick dip in the naturally fed and filtered cold-water pool, a staggeringly ridiculous idea sparked by one too many whiskies the night before. I’m no fan of cold water, and no matter how many benefits Wim Hof could claim, the thought of plunging into ice-cold water wasn’t exactly appealing. But I did it anyway. Emerging red-faced and with skin tingling as if on fire, I felt more awake than I’d ever been. Imagine the morning after the deepest sleep, amplified by ten thousand espressos, only without the caffeine crash. That’s how alive I felt. In fact, I’ve since kept up this ritual, buying a portable ice tub when I got home (Link). Highly recommend it, by the way.
Revitalised and buzzing with energy, we set off to explore Temple Wood, about three miles from the castle. This ancient site in Kilmartin Glen is a captivating window into the past. Home to two prehistoric stone circles, Temple Wood has evolved over 5,000 years, from wooden posts to stone circles, cairns, and burials. The name "Temple Wood" dates back to the late 1800s when Sir John Malcolm, then a local landowner, planted trees around the circles and gave the site its somewhat misleading name. He suspected it was a place of worship, but others think it may have served as an ancient observatory. If you’re lucky enough to visit at the right time of year, you might catch the sunrise or moonrise perfectly framed by these stones, an awe-inspiring connection to those who stood here thousands of years before.
Standing among these ancient circles, it’s hard not to feel a profound sense of place and time. Temple Wood isn’t just a historical site; it’s a reminder that we’re all part of a much longer story, stretching back through millennia.
A Visit to Carnasserie Castle
After a quick bite to eat at Lucy's in Ardfern (highly recommended), we drove to Carnasserie Castle, now a roofless ruin that was once a fashionable residence shaped by the latest Renaissance ideas. It was home to the same man that built Kilmartin Castle, Master John Carswell, the first Protestant Bishop of the Isles, and every inch of its design reflects the stature and influence of a man who was clearly ahead of his time.
Wandering through its halls, I couldn’t help but admire the castle’s clever layout, integrating a towering five-storey tower house with a hall range into one seamless structure. Even in its ruinous state, you can see how refined its masonry once was, the finely-carved details still hinting at the grandeur these walls once held.
Climbing up to the parapets, I was rewarded with a spectacular view stretching down into Kilmartin Glen. From that vantage point, you can even pick out some of the marked rocks, cairns, and standing stones below, reminders of the layers of history that surround this remarkable corner of Scotland.
Visiting Carnasserie Castle and imagining its former glory made me realise how fortunate we are today. The dedication of people like Simon and Steph in restoring historic sites, breathing new life into ancient walls, allows us not just to witness history, but to truly experience it. Standing there, I found myself quietly thankful for their work and, in the same moment, more than a little inspired. If Carnasserie left me with one lingering thought, it’s this: I definitely want my own castle someday.
Back to the Castle for Private Dining Like Royalty
That evening, we ventured onto the castle grounds for a private dining experience unlike any I’d encountered before. Instead of a traditional dining room, we found ourselves in a picturesque glasshouse, a beautifully designed, intimate space that could seat up to ten guests. Dimly lit and brimming with atmosphere, this hidden gem was framed by greenery and bathed in the soft glow of moonlight, its glass walls offering a gentle view of the castle’s ancient silhouette and the trees beyond. Our personal chef had prepared a menu that honoured Scotland’s rich culinary traditions. We began with peat-smoked salmon and crisp oatcakes, followed by a fragrant venison stew simmered slowly in red wine and juniper. For dessert, a rich pudding infused with a hint of local whisky tied it all together. Each course felt like a tasteful nod to the land’s heritage, thoughtfully presented in this enchanting setting.There, beneath the starlit sky, I felt utterly indulged. It wasn’t just a meal, it was a feast in a secret garden, a quiet pocket of elegance and history all to ourselves. If you ever have the opportunity, I can’t recommend it highly enough. For one wondrous evening, I truly dined like royalty.
The Final Morning and Fond Goodbyes
All too soon, the last morning arrived. As I packed my things and made my way downstairs, I said my goodbyes to Simon and Steph, feeling a bit like I was leaving old friends behind. It’s funny how a place can weave itself into your heart so quickly. The castle’s warmth, the conversations shared over candlelit dinners, and the simple joys of quiet mornings will stay with me long after I’ve left. These stone walls have seen countless stories unfold, and I’m grateful mine became one of them, even if only for a weekend.
Have the Entire Castle to Yourself
Here’s something that absolutely blew me away: you can rent the entire castle. Yes, the whole thing. Imagine gathering a group of friends or family and having free rein in this historic space. Waking up in the morning to cook breakfast together in the old kitchen, then lounging in the living rooms, exploring every tower and corridor—each moment infused with the thrill of staying somewhere so unique. It’s a perfect setting for a big birthday weekend, a romantic escape, or just a bucket-list dream you’re ready to check off.
Leaving Kilmartin Castle felt like stepping out of a different time, one filled with laughter, stories, and a sense of belonging that I won’t soon forget. If you ever get the chance, go. You’ll leave richer in memories than when you arrived.
